Galicia, a feast for the senses
Francisco Otero, our bulthaup Partner in A Coruña and Pontevedra, tells us that “the kitchen, known as the lareira in Galician, was traditionally the most important room in the entire home. The rank and quality of a house was measured by the size of its kitchen stove. These were usually made of carved stone and could be assessed from the outside by the size of the chimney, which you continue to see in many traditional Galician houses today.”
This feature that marked Galician culture goes hand in hand with a strong penchant for gastronomic celebration. However, what truly stands out in the region’s culinary output is its simplicity. The ingredients are barely transformed, left to reveal their true character. The sparsely chosen added flavors and spices never cover up the qualities of the main products in the local dishes, which Galicians identify both by sight and by taste.
“In Galicia, you tend to eat well,” Francisco Otero assures us, “everywhere, from the typical furanchos–private farmhouses that sell their wine and home-grown produce–to most restaurants.”
“In Santiago de Compostela, for example, your wouldn’t want to miss Abastos 2.0, located on the square and next to the market that bear the same name. Signature tapas and fresh products from the market are carefully prepared here in their simplest form. The restaurant also features Olei, an oil made from arbequina olives in Xinza (Ourense) and “espresso” cockles, steamed for 10 seconds in the coffee machine,” he explains.
Marcelo Tejedor, one of the foremost chefs in Galicia today, had the courage to close down his Michelin-starred restaurant several years ago with the sole aim of exploring new horizons. Casa Marcelo is now the first Galician-Japanese tavern in the world, true to its innovative spirit and to its focus on locally-sourced ingredients. A must according to Francisco Otero and Rafael Padin from bulthaup Galicia.
Iago Castrillón runs El Acio, recently named “revelation restaurant” by Madrid Fusión 2013. “The best ingredients from Galicia in a 100% seasonal cuisine, with their own vegetable garden five minutes away from the Cathedral of Santiago and excellent value in their weekday menus.” The restaurant also boasts an outstanding sommelier, Eva Pizarro, who as a talent for turning a very good meal into a feast for the senses.
Francisco reminds us of the region’s wine-growing tradition. “Back in the times of the Roman Empire, the local wines were exported to Rome for important celebrations.” And he proceeds to recommend that we visit “Bagos, a wine bar in downtown Pontevedra with a wine list that is probably the best in Galicia, and one of the best sommeliers in all of Spain: Fernando Filgueira. In this highly recommended venue you can taste the best of wines along with “tapas km0” made with natural, locally-sourced ingredients.
Last but not least, Otero adds that “if you love seafood, you have to make it out to the island of Ons, in the Ría de Pontevedra, and eat at Casa Checho. Their freshly-caught octopus and their barnacles are truly spectacular.”
We would like to thank Francisco Otero and Rafael Padin from bulthaup in Pontevedra and A Coruña for all their help.
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